
I replaced the heavy and clumsy brass piston hanks on the stays’l with traditional brass luff rings.
We use SS 7×7 5/16” wire rope for all the standing rigging on the Far Reach, except the forestay. For the forestay, we use synthetic 9mm Dynex Dux (heat treated dyneema). Recently, we modified the forestay to make it easy to detach it from the gammon iron. That modification allows us to open up the foretriangle making it easier to short tack as the forestay is no longer an obstruction to the jib. The modification, includes a partially covered dyneema that serves as a lanyard, and a few low-friction rings.
We originally used stout brass piston hanks on both the jib and staysail. Because the hanks were new, and without sharp edges or burrs, they did not harm the synthetic Dux forestay. But, the heavy and slightly clumsy hanks did not slide on the Dux as smoothly as on the wire headstay when raising and lowering the stays’l. Additionally, during a tack, the big hanks seemed to create friction on the jib when it passed over the forestay.
To reduce friction and to make the attachment of the stays’l to the forestay more streamlined and less bulky we decided to implement a technique we had read about and was used by a seasoned voyager—replace the heavy brass piston hanks with sewn on brass luff rings.

The luff rings were easy to install and are more streamlined and produce less friction than traditional brass piston hanks. Another option is to use dyneema soft hanks. But the luff rings have a nice traditional look. I think they are going to work well
Because the forestay is synthetic, vice wire, there is little to no wear on the brass luff rings. The low-friction ring we use as the end terminator on the bottom end of the forestay can be removed from the spliced eye. Then, we simply slip the luff rings off the forestay, reinstall the low-friction ring into the spliced eye and reconnect the lanyard and retighten the forestay. The reality is we almost never unbend the stays’l from the forestay. It’s either in the bag connected to the forestay and ready to be employed at a moments notice or it’s in the bag connected to the forestay and the forestay and the bag are moved aft and secured to the cabin top or on the side deck near the forward lower shrouds.

By making the forestay easily removable it is a simple thing to clear the foretriangle when short-tacking . You can see the bagged stays’l on the side deck near the port forward lower shroud.
To install the luff rings, I needed to remove the crimped-on piston hanks from the luff of the stays’l. It was easily accomplished with a hammer and steel wedge. Then, I used #8 whipping thread to lash the rings on to the luff grommets. Our sailmaker recommended we keep the whipping a little loose around the luff line (inside the sail) and the grommets to allow some movement. It took about an hour to remove the 11 hanks and sew on the brass rings.

It took about an hour to remove the 11 hanks and install the luff rings with #6 whipping.
While removing the brass hanks was simple, be forewarned they don’t normally survive intact. About half the time the hook breaks off. I had read about this ahead of time so I was not surprised. In the future, when I replace the brass hanks on the genoa, I will purchase the more expensive hanks that are designed to be sewn on vice “crimped” on and which can be removed and reinstalled as often as necessary.

This picture depicts two things: 1. The beak on the hank often breaks off when removing them from the luff grommets rendering an otherwise functional and expensive piece of hardware useless and, 2. the hanks, used on a staysail, stand very proud of the forestay and may well increase friction on the jib when tacking.
So now we have two simple modifications to the staysail that work hand in hand: an easily detachable synthetic forestay and sewn on brass luff rings that make raising and lowering the stays’l easier and reduce friction when tacking. Though I have yet to sail the Far Reach with the luff rings I have tested it at the dock and it works very well.

There are two things I like about these modifications: 1. An easy to remove forestay incorporating dynex dux and, 2. Traditional brass luff rings minimizing friction when hoisting/dropping the stays’l and when tacking.
I’m looking forward to vigorously testing this modification. If I see any wear on the luff caused by the whipping I will remove the rings, sew on some leather as a chafing guard then reattach the rings with new whipping.
Hello, a very interesting and informative post, thank you. I am repairing a Trintella 29 (Van de Stadt) and have also decided to use hanked on jibs. I have now bought a 10m2 (approx 100 sq ft) working jib with a slab reef in it. My sailmaker was not that keen on adding a reef saying that the leech cringle for the reef would cause leech flutter when the sail was used without a reef, plus that the reef would catch water when in use. Based on their advice and experience we agreed on a relatively small slab reef, that reduces the sail area to 8m2 (approx 80 sq ft) when reefed. Due to Covid I am not yet in the water and have not ben able to use the sail. I wonder what your experience has been re leech flutter on an un-reefed reffing jib? Thanks Andre
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Hi Andre. Trentilla is a nice boat. I actually have two reefs in the stays’l. And, I have used it during my last voyage to the Virgin Islands running down wind in about 35-40 kts. Worked great.
I have a leech line for the stays’l, even with the two reef points, so we have no leech flutter. The sails are bagged and put away but if I have time tomorrow I’ll pull the stays’l out and take some pictures for you.
Go to http://www.farreachvoyages.com. There is a contact link there. Send me an email so we can coordinate more easily.
John
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